AN ISLAND TO ONESELF

MOTU PISCINE, RAIVAVAE

Though I have never been formally trained as a journalist, I try to be objective in what I write.  I present the facts as they are spoken to me, I take good notes, and I try to select photographs that do justice to the feature of these islands I am trying to highlight.  I don’t like to insert myself as forcefully into the narration as this chapter does, but at the end of the day, the apart project is not just about these isolated islands, but rather about my experiences with them.  The people I speak to are the people that I naturally gravitate towards, or that gravitate towards me. The places I visit and photograph are those that I find or am shown. This project could never offer an exhaustive look at these islands and their cultures, even if I had years of my time to spend on each one.  Rather, it is a snapshot in time of the people, places, and cultural oddities that this curious, 30-something-year-old American can find as he pokes around remote regions of the world, camera in hand.

In my many long days and nights at sea in the Australs, one of my sources of entertainment was reading a lovely book called An Island to Oneself, written by a New Zealander named Tom Neale who gave up conventional life in the 1960s to move to the uninhabited atoll of Suwarrow in the Cook Islands.  It was a fascinating read, though not a life I would wish for myself; I crave human interaction far too much. For that reason, when I found myself celebrating my 33rd birthday on the island of Raivavae, traveling alone in the South Seas with no birthday cake available to me, I opted to give myself an odd birthday present: I decided to spend a single night in my tent on an uninhabited motu off the coast of Raivavae, and experience for one night what it means to literally have an island all to myself.

After spending the day with Patrick and Irene, I asked them for permission to spend the night on the tiny island across the channel from their motu.  They were confused as to why I would want to, but said it would be fine. Patrick came with me to watch me, fascinated, as I set up my small tent. After we ate supper, I stripped down to my shorts, and waded neck deep across the channel in the dark with my duffel bag held above my head.  There was a full moon that night, and I sat down in the sand next to my tent, poured myself a glass of whiskey and spend an hour staring out across the water at the surreal, moonlit paradise that surrounded me, before finally turning in. In the morning, Patrick told me that I was the only person to have ever spent a night on that islet, and jokingly said he was going to rename it Motu Greg in my honor.