We landed in our zodiacs onto a sandy beach on Enderby Island near a small colony of New Zealand sea lions, an endangered species native to the area.  December was the beginning of breeding season for these sea lions, and the colony consisted of sandy-colored females lounging on the beach, some caring for their yearling seal pups, while the adolescent males fought with one another for the opportunity to mate with them.  The alpha male of the colony, known as the beachmaster, was older and larger than the others, and sat at the waterline with his back to the sea, watching over the group and responding quickly (and violently) if anything was not to his liking.  Male New Zealand sea lions have a thick mane of fur around their collars, and the beachmaster, especially, had a very lion-like look to him.