The cargo ship on which I traveled, the Tuha’a Pae IV, serves as both supply line and transportation from Tahiti to all the populated islands of the Austral archipelago.  Four decks high in the aft of the ship, it is a sizable freighter, capable of transporting approximately 30 shipping containers.  Every month, the Tuhaa Pae IV leaves from Papeete and travels south, filled with cargo for each island—and with islanders headed home.  On a normal voyage, the ship stops at Rimatara, Rurutu, Tubuai, and Raivavae before heading back to Tahiti. Once every three months, however, it visits Rapa Iti, the most remote of the Australs, which lies a further two days’ sail from Raivavae. I had waited patiently for more than a year to catch one of these particular tours that included a stop on Rapa Iti.  

I spent 11 days on board the Tuha’a Pae IV as the only non-native passenger.  My inability to speak French made conversation difficult, though a couple of the crew members spoke a bit of English and were able to answer some of my questions.  I was given my own cabin on the third deck in the aft of the ship, which was comfortable enough. There was no electronic service of any kind — no wifi and no cell phone signal — so most of my time was spent reading, writing up my notes, or working on photographs at the tiny desk in my quarters.  I ate meals with the crew and other passengers —breakfast at 6 am, lunch at 11 am, and dinner at 5 pm — and if I was lucky, there would be coffee in the afternoon. We would sail straight through the night, arriving at each of the islands in the early hours of the morning. I would have my breakfast, pack my camera bag, and go ashore.  At each island, I had the day to explore while the crew unloaded cargo from the ship, and would return to the ship in the late afternoon for our departure to the next island.